let’s continue…Matsu
let’s continue…travel to Matsu !
What gives Matsu its unique flavor is its blend of attractive scenery, a significant military presence, local religion, and fishing communities. Some of the more notable sights are: the Peihai Tunnel, the Iron Fort, the Queen of Heaven Temple and Niuchiao Village (all on Nankan Island); Chinpi Village and Chukuang fishing village (on Peikan); and the “Line of Sky” (a narrow gap between huge rocks), Virgin’s Cliff and the Tungchu Lighthouse (on Tungyin).
The Peihai Tunnel is a typical example of a military installation converted into a tourist attraction. It was built in the late 1960s by the army, using simple hand tools to cut a 700-meter-long quay into the granite wall of a coastal inlet. At the upper end there are large chambers hacked into the rock, which once served as offices and sleeping quarters.
Inside, the passage is pleasantly cool and peaceful. The only sound is the steady drip of water somewhere far off. It’s almost impossible to imagine that this place was once full of people in a state of armed readiness.
Our driver, Mr. Tung, who was provided courtesy of the Matsu Daily News, kept a close eye on the time as we toured the passageway. The water level inside depends on the tide, and if you’re not careful you can get trapped in one of the deeper parts of the tunnel by rising waters.
Not far away from the underground passage is another well-known military feature, the Iron Fort, which sits atop a rocky outcrop. This is where the island’s amphibious units used to be garrisoned. Sentry posts stand either side of the main blockhouse, along with kennels for guard dogs. The structure features sniper slots, gun emplacements, a kitchen and sleeping quarters.
During the 1950s, when military tensions were at their height, PRC frogmen often sneaked up and killed the sentries. Usually they poisoned the dogs first, then slit the throats of the guards. Dozens of men were lost in this way, but the attackers were never able to occupy the fort. Thus it came to be called the Iron Fort.
Nothing of the life-and-death atmosphere of those times lingers. Nowadays, with waves sloshing against the rocks below and seagulls wheeling through the air, it’s more like a scenic lookout. Only when you wander inside, penetrating to the interior of the blockhouse, does the darkness begin to unnerve you. A chill gust blows through, and you may find yourself muttering: “Rest in peace, you spirits of departed heroes!”
A few more steps and you emerge blinking into the white light of day: one scenic location encompassing two distinct worlds.
