Another of Matsu’s “sights” is its many soldiers. There are far less now than there used to be, but they still outnumber local inhabitants.

When a military supply ships dock at Makang, the wharf seems suddenly overrun with army personnel loading and unloading. For tourists come to visit the Matsu temple, it’s a rare chance to witness a “military action.” In fact, the army is present in every corner of Matsu, and military facilities are as ubiquitous as folk temples.

Seeing the soldiers in action, you can’t but feel awed by the hardships endured and feats achieved to build up and defend this island base. A few steps further along the wharf you come to the temple, where a statue of Matsu awaits you with a smile, seated amid wafting incense smoke.

Matsu’s religious culture, which reflects that of eastern Fujian, features a pantheon of local gods-often real people who achieved something special during their lives and were subsequently deified. The village of Chiaotzu on Peikan Isle, badly affected by population loss, has five temples housing 10-20 idols apiece-meaning that the village now has more gods than people.

There’s a common perception that the goddess Matsu-after whom the island group was named-must be the focus of all religious activity here, but in fact there are only nine Matsu temples among the 60 or so temples on the islands. The god with the largest number of temples dedicated to him is called the White Horse King: a real general who once defended eastern Fujian. There are temples dedicated to various other gods who also started out as generals, and also to such deities as the god of pestilence.

In fact, temples are everywhere to be seen in Matsu, both in open countryside and jammed between village houses. The architecture of the temples is of the eastern Fujian style, with granite walls and featuring colorful, intricate decorations, in sharp contrast to the plain buildings around them. Squatting in the entrance of a temple on a hillside, looking out across the sea-which shines golden in the light of the setting sun and is dotted with little fishing craft-one feels a strong sense of the endless ebb and flow of history.

Soon the lights of the fishing boats begin to twinkle and you head down towards the harbor, where shops and restaurants packed with fresh seafood await the hungry visitor.

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